Here’s a quick video tip that shows how the Adjustment Brush in Adobe Lightroom can be a quick and powerful tool in post processing your digital photographs.
Sometimes when photographing a subject on a white seamless paper backdrop or fabric drop cloth, wrinkles can show up and cause an eyesore. I’ve attempted many different techniques for smoothing, smudging or doge & burning out those wrinkles but the frequency separation method I show in this video seems to work the best.
You can download the frequency separation Photoshop action I use in the video here.
***Update*** – If you like the matte look, checkout my new premium preset collection, Vintage Matte.
One popular post processing look that I’ve seen come and go over the past couple of years aims to imitate the look of film photography developed onto Matte finish photographic paper. I have to admit, there are times when this type of look can add a warmth and feeling that you sometime lose in the ultra crisp, clean, contrasty look that high resolution digital cameras give us. The key is to not take it to far. Subtlety will go a long way in selling this effect. I’m always a fan of post processing that doesn’t draw attention to itself. Add the effect because it will help the story of the photograph, not because the effect is cool and you hope it will help improve your otherwise underwhelming photo. [Read more…]
This is the second part of a post on How to Photograph Stars in the Night Sky.
About the Shot
This last weekend I had the opportunity to visit Elkhorn Campground in Southern Utah for a family reunion. Elkhorn is in the middle of nowhere. No cell service. No Walmart. You’re lucky if he nearest town has a gas station. It’s really remote and a perfect location for photographing the night sky. This year I lucked out with a new moon that didn’t rise until the early morning hours. By 11:00 pm the sky was dark enough to make out the Milky Way with your naked eye. [Read more…]
Shallow depth of field is a powerful tool that photographers use to help a subject stand out from the background of a scene. We love the creamy blurred background or bokeh effect that is achieved by shooting with your aperture wide open. You can increase this effect by shooting with a telephoto lens to further narrow the focus plane and increase the bokeh. 85mm-200mm is a common focal range for portrait photographers. [Read more…]
I’ve spent the last week in Busan, South Korea photographing a corporate event with over 5,000 attendees and world class entertainment and stage performances. One of my favorite performances was by a Korean drummer, Choi Suri. In this tutorial I will go over how I shot and post processed this image for the above result. [Read more…]
In photography, some subjects lend themselves to a different aspect ratio than the standard photograph. Sometimes you just can’t convey what you want within the confines of the rectangle that you camera captures with one exposure. In panoramic photography, typically you take several exposure and combine them with software after the fact to end up with a photo that has an increased field of view that just wouldn’t be possible otherwise.
Photoshop has made creating panoramas incredibly easy. Here’s how to do it: [Read more…]
The laws of physics and current camera technology sometime make it difficult to create the image we see in our heads. Especially when shooting macro photography, your focus plane can be so razor thin that only a small part of your subject is in sharp focus. It can make for some milky smooth bokeh in your background, but sometimes you want more of you subject to be in focus to help it stand out. Through the power of Adobe Photoshop, it’s possible to combine several images of the same subject taken at different focal lengths into one image that has a greater depth of field. This technique is called focus stacking.
Taking the Images
For this technique you will want to put your camera on a tripod. Photoshop does a great job in aligning images automatically, but it does a much better job if each shot is exactly the same except for your focus point. Once you have your shot setup, start by switching your lens to manual focus and focusing on the closest part of your subject that you want to be in focus. Take a picture and then gently and carefully adjust your focus slightly further back on your subject. Repeat this process until you have a set of images that each have a slightly different part of your foreground subject in focus.
In this tutorial I will explain the benefits of shooting and editing in camera RAW. If you’ve been experimenting with or learning photography, you’ve probably read or heard that you should be shooting in RAW. But what does this mean and what are the benefits? How do you use a RAW file once you’ve captured one? [Read more…]
Adobe Lightroom is an extremely powerful software tool for serious photographers. From their webpage:
Lightroom 5 makes digital photography easier, faster, and more amazing. Experiment without limits in a nondestructive editing environment. Perfect your shots with advanced controls for tone, contrast, color, and more. Efficiently organize all your photos and share them almost anywhere.
One of my favorite things about Lightroom is the ability to save adjustments that you make to your images as presets. These presets can be exported and shared. Over time you end up building a collection of Lightroom presets and it can really speed up your workflow. I have different presets that I like to use as a starting point when editing portraits, landscapes, and products. Most of the time I find that an image still needs some adjustment after you apply a preset, but they can definitely save you time when you find yourself making similar adjustments on a regular basis.